Born in Londonderry, born in Derry, too

Look on the map of Ireland the tour company supplied us, and you will see that one of our planned stops is Derry. But chances are you've heard of Londonderry. Same place.

The naming controversy goes way back in history. The Gaelic word from which Derry derives is usually translated "oak grove," and after the founding of a Celtic monastery, by St. Columba in the 6th century according to legend, the city came to be called by the Gaelic for "oak grove of Columba." James I of England granted a charter for the city under the name "Derrie."

Old walls across the river from the old city. Never did find
out what they used to be part of.

This original city, across the River Foyle from the old, walled city, was destroyed and a new city was built and named "Londonderry" because of help received from companies in London. But it's County Derry, and the town council is the Derry Council. Like just about everything else, the name became a political football, and what you called the town indicated whether you supported the nationalist cause, which would like to see Northern Ireland re-united with Ireland, or the unionist cause, which wants to keep N.I. British.

Many times the city name is written Derry/Londonderry, which prompted one radio host and wag to suggest it be called "Stroke City."

Like the rest of Northern Ireland, Derry/Londonderry experienced its share of woe and violence during The Troubles, and as we drove around the town for a quick orientation tour, we saw murals and signs that indicated the division was alive and well. One sign proclaimed, "Entering Free Derry." Sorry, I didn't get a picture of that.

Our guide for the afternoon was Ronan McNamara, a fine, Irish name, right? And Ronan wears his heritage -- not with red hair or some other stereotypical Irish appearance -- but with Asian features. His father was Irish and his mother Chinese. He said his friends call him "Chirish." He's also Buddhist, but he explained that he was neither Catholic Buddhist or Irish Buddhist.

As might be expected, his appearance, coupled with his Irish accent, sometimes occasions comments. He told us that when he graduated University, he took a job teaching Irish Gaelic. When he went to a shop in the little town where he was to teach, a couple of women began talking about him in Irish, completely unaware that he fully understood them. He asked them a question in Irish, which produced no small amount of embarrassment for the women, one of whom excused herself and ran off to the bathroom.

After a short bus tour, we stopped near one of the gates of the old, walled city, then took a stairway to the top of the wall. In 1688 the city became a focus in the struggle against James II, who'd been ousted, and William of Orange, who ruled at the time. James invaded Ireland, and after taking Dublin moved up the coast. After arriving at Derry/Londonderry, he demanded the city's surrender. They refused and shut the city gates. A siege lasting more than 3 months commenced, and almost a third of the city's population died. But James was not victorious.

Thatched roof building.

We descend from the wall to walk through an area in the old city that is part arts district, part shops and part living history. The area features period architecture, including a thatch-roof hut. Not much was going on, though, because it was Sunday.


We walk through a gate in the wall to face the Guildhall. Ronan points out that the cannon that ring the old city on the wall are pointed at the hall and makes a joke about how the residents must feel about their politicians.

The Guildhall was built in the mid 1800s and looks for all the world like a church from the outside, which is what I thought it was. The city government is housed here, but the hall also functions as a kind of civic center where community meetings take place. Today the hall hosts a wedding fair, and old limousines are lined up in the plaza in front of the hall. Dancing fountains enhance the plaza.

Ronan tells us he's not allowed to conduct tours in the Guildhall, but if we want to follow him as he takes a shortcut through the hall back to our hotel, he might be able to point out a thing or two as we pass through.

A bombing in Derry damaged the stained-glass windows in the hall, and a statue of Queen Victoria suffered the loss of its hands, which have never been replaced despite the restoration of the rest of the hall. Ronan encourages us to come back inside the hall after the tour to see the pipe organ and visit the small museum housed there.

At the conclusion of the tour, Ronan tells us how much he appreciates that we traveled to Northern Ireland. Many visitors to Ireland, he says, avoid Northern Island because of its violent past. But the country has made great strides toward reconciliation and tolerance, he says, and he hopes we'll take that message home -- which I have just done.

Some of our group head for the hotel, which is across the street, some head back toward the old city to shop and search for pubs to visit later. Some go hang out at the river. Sharon and I head back to the Guildhall and go upstairs where the wedding fair is going on.

Some of the hats at the wedding fair.
(See video at the botton for a bit of the fashion show.)

We arrive just as the exhibitors are packing up, but we see the last bit of the fashion show, and view the silly hats that women over there wear. A couple of booths are pushing the last of the cookies they set out for visitors, so we snag a couple. They're not real sweet, so I actually eat mine.

We've a bit of time 'til supper, so we go back downstairs and hang out by the river to shoot pics. The city constructed a pedestrian/cycle bridge across the river, symbolically linking the Guildhall to the old barracks that used to house British soldiers. The barracks area is being revamped and appears to have a large concert area.

A very old wall is incorporated into the area, and I never find out exactly what its origins are. Our tour guide, Sean, tells me it could have been a make-work project from the time of the famine, built to give residents a job so they could afford to buy food.  I wonder if it might be a remnant of the original Derry that was destroyed. Or it could have been an old British fortification.

The Peace Bridge

The bridge is "S" shaped, with two large, diagonal columns. All this is very symbolic. This is what the visitor's bureau says about it:

The Peace Bridge physically and symbolically unites both sides of the River Foyle and is conceived as two distinct structural systems that work in harmony, a pair of identical curved suspension structures, each allied to opposing banks, in a fluid “S” shaped alignment. At the middle of the river both structural systems tangibly overlap, boldly interacting to create a single unified crossing . . .

 Each curved section has bench seating built in so folks can set a spell and visit, or rest, or maybe just enjoy the scenery. A sculpture of two men reaching toward each other stands nearby. It's called "Hands Across the River." The hands don't quite touch. More symbolism.

We linger at the river until time to eat, then call it a night after supper. More adventure lies ahead, we hope.